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CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA - The wine cellar at Monticello provides
a glimpse into the daily living and dining customs of one of
the Founding Fathers. Thomas Jefferson not only described
the basis for America’s legitimate claims to self-government
in the Declaration of Independence, but his cellar and the
bottles shelved there make the statement for the ages that
this remarkable man was a champion of style and grace who
placed entertaining right alongside farming, governing,
architecture, and law. Dining with fine wine was de rigueur
wherever he lived.
Jefferson cultivated his love of the fine wines while living
in Paris. Later, he advised America’s presidents about
serving and pairing wines, often providing them with wines
from his well-stocked cellar. One entry in his journal
described an experience with Nebbiolo, a sparkling Italian
Piedmont wine, as "superlatively fine." His earlier
introduction to Nebbiolo in Turin was remembered as "about
as sweet as the silky Madeira, as astringent on the palate
as Bordeaux, and as brisk as Champagne. It is a pleasing
wine."
Serving as the
nation’s first ambassador to France,
Jefferson lived comfortably on the Champs-Elysées and
traveled to the vineyards of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Hermitage,
Cote Rotie, Champagne, through Provence, into Italy along
the Italian and French Riviera, through Languedoc on the
Canal-du-Midi, touring, and tasting along the Rhine stopping
off at famous German vineyards. The experiences assured that
his dinner guests in Paris and later at Monticello and the
White House would enjoy the world’s finest wines.
In his heart, Jefferson was a Francophile.
In
1824, Daniel Webster noted that dinners at Monticello were
"served in half Virginian, half French style, in good taste
and abundance."
Dinner at Monticello was described by Jefferson’s
granddaughter, Ellen Randolph Coolidge, as a “feast of
reason,” where between sips and bites, ideas were freely
shared and discussed. To minimize disruptions, to keep wine
constantly available, and to prevent bottles from being
shaken by servants, bottles were re-supplied by dumbwaiters
used to bring undisturbed wine up from Monticello’s heralded
cellar.
During the bicentennial of the Louisiana Purchase, I
attended a seminar in New Orleans’ fabled French Quarter at
the Cabildo where this land transaction was consummated. The
lecture was about Jefferson's favorite wines. Regarding red
wines, they were likely Bordeaux. Bottles were opened and
poured from some of the Chateaux’ that Jefferson visited,
allowing me to experience what impressed Jefferson’s very
advanced palate.
In Burgundy, Jefferson
was enamored with Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, and
Vosnee-Romanee and praised Montrachet the best white wine of
Burgundy while maintaining a fondness for Meusault.
Jefferson frequented the vineyards of the Rhone Valley and
championed dry white Hermitage "marked with a touch of
sweetness" that he called it the "first wine in the world
without exception."
Jefferson's favorite
Bordeaux included Chateaux Haut-Brion, Lafite, Latour,
Margaux, Rausan-Segla, and Chateau Carbonnieux. His
preferred Sauternes was Chateau d'Yquem.
Today,
Jefferson Vineyards is a mile from Monticello and does what
Jefferson was unable to do, make wines from grapes grown
from Thomas Jefferson's original vineyard sites. The
vineyard is part of the designated Monticello American
Viticulture Area, an important part of Virginia’s claim as
the nation’s 5th largest wine producer.
Jefferson words remain relevant today:
"...you are not to
conclude I am a drinker. My measure is a perfectly sober 3
or 4 glasses at dinner, and not a drop at any other time.
But as to those 3 or 4 glasses I am very fond."
Jefferson’s wine legacy is part of what American’s claim as
our right to pursue happiness.
Photo on right - A native of France, Matthieu
Finot is the winemaker at highly regarded King Family
Vineyards near Jefferson's home and is part of the
Monticello AVA. All grapes grown here are French varietals.
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