History of Hamburgers© copyright 2004 by Linda Stradley - United States Copyright TX 5-900-517- All rights reserved. This web site may not be reproduced in whole or in part without permission and appropriate credit given. If you use any of the history information contained below for research in writing a magazine or newspaper article, school work or college research, and/or television show production, you must give a reference to the author, Linda Stradley, and to the web site What's Cooking America.
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1238 - When Genghis Khan's grandson, Khubilai Khan (1215-1294), invaded Moscow, they naturally brought their unique dietary ground meat with them. The Russians adopted it into their own cuisine with the name "Steak Tartare," (Tartars being their name for the Mongols). Over many years, Russian chefs adapted and developed this dish and refining it with chopped onions and raw eggs. 15th Century Beginning in the fifteenth century, minced beef was a valued delicacy throughout Europe. Hashed beef was made into sausage in several different regions of Europe. 1600s - Ships from the German port of Hamburg, Germany began calling on Russian port. During this period the Russian steak tartare was brought back to Germany and called "tartare steak." 18th and 19th Centuries Hamburg Steak In the late eighteenth century, the largest ports in Europe were in Germany. Sailors who had visited the ports of Hamburg, Germany and New York, brought this food and term "Hamburg Steak" into popular usage. To attract German sailors, eating stands along the New York city harbor offered "steak cooked in the Hamburg style." In 1802, the Oxford English Dictionary defined Hamburg steak as salt beef. It had little resemblance to the hamburger we know today. It was a hard slab of salted minced beef, often slightly smoked, mixed with onions and breadcrumbs. The emphasis was more on durability than taste. Immigrants to the United States from German-speaking countries brought with them some of their favorite foods. One of them was Hamburg Steak. The Germans simply flavored shredded low-grade beef with regional spices, and both cooked and raw it became a standard meal among the poorer classes. In the seaport town of Hamburg, it acquired the name Hamburg steak. Today, this hamburger patty is no longer called Hamburg Steak in Germany but rather "Frikadelle," "Frikandelle" or "Bulette," orginally Italian and French words. According to Theodora Fitzgibbon in her book The Food of the Western World - An Encyclopedia of food from North American and Europe:
Referring to ground beef as hamburger dates to the invention of the mechanical meat choppers during the 1800s. It wasn't until the early nineteenth century that wood, tin, and pewter cylinders with wooden plunger pushers became common. Steve Church of Ridgecrest, California uncovered some long forgotten U. S. patents on Meat Cutters:
Many historians claim the first printed American menu was in 1826 on New York's Delmonico's Restaurant. Ellen Steinberg, Ph.D, of Illinois sent me the following information from the Nutrition Today Magazine, Volume 39, January/February 2004, pp 18-25:
According to the Los Angeles, CA Metropolitan New-Enterprise newspaper article, Old Menus Tell the History of Hamburgers in L.A., by Roger M. Grace:
Hamburger Steak, Plain and Hamburger Steak with Onions, was served at the Tyrolean Alps Restaurant at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair.
1758 - By the mid-18th century, German immigrants also begin arriving in England. One recipe, titled "Hamburgh Sausage," appeared in Hannah Glasse's 1758 English cookbook called The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. It consisted of chopped beef, suet, and spices. The author recommended that this sausage be served with toasted bread. Hannah Glasse's cookbook was also very popular in Colonial America, although it was not published in the United States until 1805. This American edition also contained the "Hamburgh Sausage" recipe with slight revisions. 1844 - The original Boston Cooking School Cook Book, by Mrs. D.A. Lincoln (Mary Bailey), 1844 had a recipe for Broiled Meat Cakes and also Hamburgh Steak:
1894 - In the 1894 edition of the book The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical & Practical Studies, by Charles Ranhofer (1836-1899), chef at the famous Delmonico's restaurant in New York, there is a listing for Beef Steak Hamburg Style. The dish is also listed in French as Bifteck ŕ Hambourgeoise. What made his version unique was that the recipe called for the ground beef to be mixed with kidney and bone marrow:
1906 - Upton Sinclair (1878-1968), American novelist, wrote in his book called The Jungle, which told of the horrors of Chicago meat packing plants. This book caused much distrust in the United States regarding chopped meat. Sinclair was surprised that the public missed the main point of his impressionistic fiction and took it to be an indictment of unhygienic conditions of the meat packing industry. This caused people to not trust chopped meat for several years. History of American Hamburgers
Only one of the claimants below served their hamburgers on a bun - Oscar Weber Bilby in 1891. The rest served them as sandwiches between two slices of bread. Most of the following stories on the history of the hamburgers were told after the fact and are based on the recollections of family members. For many people, which story or legend you believe probably depends on where you are from. You be the judge! The claims are as follows: 1885 - Charlie Nagreen of Seymour, Wisconsin, at the age of 15, sold hamburgers from his ox-drawn food stand at the Outagamie County Fair. He went to the Outagamie County Fair and set up a stand selling meatballs. Business wasn't good and he quickly realized that it was because meatballs were too difficult to eat while strolling around the fair. In a flash of innovation, he flattened the meatballs, placed them between two slices of bread and called his new creation a hamburger. He was known to many as "Hamburger Charlie." He returned to sell hamburgers at the fair every year until his death in 1951, and he would entertain people with guitar and mouth organ and his jingle:
The town of Seymour, Wisconsin is so certain about this claim that they even have a Hamburger Hall of Fame that they built as a tribute to Charlie Nagreen and the legacy he left behind. The town claims to be "Home of the Hamburger" and holds an annual Burger Festival on the first Saturday of August each year. Events include a ketchup slide, bun toss, and hamburger-eating contest, as well as the "world's largest hamburger parade." On May 9, 2007, members of the Wisconsin legislature declared Seymour, Wisconsin, as the home of the hamburger:
1885 - The family of Frank and Charles Menches from Akron, Ohio, claim the brothers invented the hamburger while traveling in a 100-man traveling concession circuit at events (fairs, race meetings, and farmers' picnics) in the Midwest in the early 1880s. During a stop at the Erie County Fair in Hamburg, New York, the brothers ran out of pork for their hot sausage patty sandwiches. Because this happened on a particularly hot day, the local butchers stop slaughtering pigs. The butcher suggested that they substitute beef for the pork. The brothers ground up the beef, mixed it with some brown sugar, coffee, and other spices and served it as a sandwich between two pieces of bread. They called this sandwich the "hamburger" after Hamburg, New York where the fair was being held. According to family legend, Frank didn't really know what to call it, so he looked up and saw the banner for the Hamburg fair and said, "This is the hamburger." In Frank's 1951 obituary in The Los Angeles Times, he is acknowledged him as the ''inventor'' of the hamburger. In 1991, Menches and his siblings stumbled across the original recipe among some old papers their great-grandmother left behind. After selling their burgers at county fairs for a few years, the family opened up the Menches Bros. Restaurant in Akron, Ohio. The Menches family is still in the restaurant business and still serving hamburgers in Ohio. On May 28, 2005, the town of Akron, Ohio hosted the First Annual National Hamburger Festival to celebrate the 120th Anniversary of the invention of the hamburger. The festival will be dedicated to Frank and Charles Menches. That's how sure the city of Akron is on the Menches' family claim on the contested contention that two residents invented the hamburger. The Ohio legislature is also considering making hamburgers the state food. 1891 - The family of Oscar Weber Bilby claim the first-known hamburger on a bun was served on Grandpa Oscar's farm just west of Tulsa, Oklahoma in 1891. The family says that Grandpa Oscar was the first to add the bun, but they concede that hamburger sandwiches made with bread may predate Grandpa Oscar's famous hamburger. Michael Wallis, travel writer and reporter for Oklahoma Today magazine, did an extensive search in 1995 for the true origins of the hamburger and determined that Oscar Weber Bilby himself was the creator of the hamburger as we know it. According to Wallis's 1995 article, Welcome To Hamburger Heaven, in an interview with Harold Bilby:
In 1933, Oscar and his son, Leo, opened the family's first hamburger stand in Tulsa, Oklahoma, called Weber's Superior Root Beer Stand. They still use the same grill used in 1891, with one minor variation, the wood stove has been converted to natural gas. In a letter to me, Linda Stradley, dated July 31, 2004, Rick Bilby states the following:
On April 13, 1995, Governor Frank Keating of Oklahoma proclaimed that the real birthplace of the hamburger on the bun, was created and consumed in Tulsa in 1891. The State of Oklahoma Proclamation states:
1900 - Louis Lassen of New Haven, Connecticut is also recorded as serving the first "burger" at his New Haven luncheonette called Louis' Lunch Wagon. Louis ran a small lunch wagon selling steak sandwiches to local factory workers. A frugal business man, he didn't like to waste the excess beef from his daily lunch rush. It is said that he ground up some scraps of beef and served it as a sandwich, the sandwich was sold between pieces of toasted bread, to a customer who was in a hurry and wanted to eat on the run. Kenneth Lassen, Louis' grandson, was quoted in the September 25, 1991 Athens Daily Review as saying;
In the mid-1960s, the New Haven Preservation Trust placed a plaque on the building where Louis' Lunch is located proclaiming Louis' Lunch to be the first place the hamburger was sold. Louis' Lunch is still selling their hamburgers from a small brick building in New Haven. The sandwich is grilled vertically in antique gas grills and served between pieces of toast rather than a bun, and refuse to provide mustard or ketchup. Library of Congress named Louis' Lunch a "Connecticut Legacy." The following is taken from the Congressional Record, 27 July 2000, page E1377:
1901 or 1902 - Bert W. Gary of Clarinda, Iowa, in an article by Paige Carlin for the Omaha World Herald newspaper, takes no credit for having invented it, but he stakes uncompromising claim to being the "daddy" of the hamburger industry. He served his hamburger on a bun:
1904 - The hamburger gets its first widespread attention at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis, Missouri, also known as the Louisiana Purchase Exhibition, where it created a sensation. A reporter for the New York Tribune wrote from the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair of a new sandwich called a hamburger, “the innovation of a food vendor on the pike.” By “Pike” he meant the World's Fair midway. Most Texans believe the vendor in question was Fletch Davis (1864-1941), also known as "old Dave" who owned a lunch counter in Athens, Texas. Supposedly Fletch Davis, at his Athens lunch counter, took some raw hamburger steak and placed it on his flat grill and fried it until it was a crisp brown on both sides. Then he placed the browned patty of meat between two thick slices of homemade toast and added a thick slice of raw onion to the top. He offered it as a special to his patrons to see if they would like it. According to some historians, he opened up a concession stand and began selling the ground beef patty sandwich at the amusement area, known as The Pike (there is no evidence for that claim, however). According to the book Beyond The Ice Cream Cone - The Whole Scoop on Food at the 1904 World's Fair by Pamela J. Vaccaro:
According to an article written by John E. Harmon called The Better Burger Battle:
In 1983, Frank X. Tolbert, former newspaper columnist of the Dallas Morning News, wrote the following in his book Tolbert’s Texas, The Henderson County Hamburger: "It took me years of sweatneck research before I finally determined, at least in mine and in some other Texas historian’s estimation, that Fletcher Davis (1864-1941), also known as “Old Dave” of Athens, in Henderson County, Texas, invented the hamburger sandwich." In 1984, a plaque was placed on the Ginger Murchison Building, approximately on Fletch Davis' cafe site. In 2006, a bill
was introduced into the Texas Legislature, H.C.R.
No. 15 - CONCURRENT RESOLUTION, to
make Athens, Texas “Original Home of the Hamburger.” This
bill is based on the research of Frank X. Tolbert into Fletcher
Davis. 1916 - Walter Anderson from Wichita, Kansas, a fry cook, developed buns to accommodate the hamburger patties. The dough he selected was heavier than ordinary bread dough, and he formed it into small, square shapes that were just big enough for one of his hamburgers. He quit his job as a cook and used his life savings to purchase an old trolley car and developed it into a diner featuring his hamburgers. In 1921, Anderson co-founded the White Castle Hamburger with Edgar Waldo "Billy" Ingram, an insurance executive, in Wichita, Kansas. It is the oldest hamburger chain. They serve steam-fried hamburgers, 18 per pound of fresh ground beef, cooked on a bed of chopped onions, for a nickel.
The popularity the character Wimpy spawned a successful chain of hamburger restaurants called Wimpy's, that flourished for over a decade. This burger went for the upscale market at 10 cents a burger. In keeping with the founder's wishes, all 1,500 restaurants were closed down when he died in 1978. 1941 - A California Supreme Court decision, that arose from a sales tax dispute where the plaintiff wanted a refund of taxes paid, under protest, on sales made during the 1937-39 World’s Fair on San Francisco’s Treasure Island. Operating food booths, it “sold only frankfurter (commonly referred to as ‘hot dog’) and hamburger sandwiches, together with coffee, milk, ale and beer,” the per curiam decision said. The issue was whether these sandwiches constituted a “meal,” rendering them exempt from the sales tax. Resolving the issue against the concessionaire, the high court said:
Cheeseburger There is also a dispute between Denver, Colorado, Louisville, Kentucky, and Pasadena, California on who and where the cheeseburger was invented. 1920s - Pasadena, California: According to the 1995 book called Welcome To Hamburger Heaven by Jeffrey Tennyson:
From the article, Who Invented Hamburger Sandwich? And What About the Cheeseburger? By Roger M. Grace, Metropolitan News-Enterprise, Thursday, January 8, 2004:
1934 - Louisville, Kentucky: According to Robin Garr's Louisville Restaurant Reviews:
Today, a plaque (probably placed there by the owners) on the wall of the Kaelin Restaurant proudly state that Carl Kaelin invented the cheeseburger. 1935 - Denver, Colorado: The cheeseburger trademark was supposedly registered by Louis Ballast on March 5, 1935 of the Humpty Dumpty Barrel Drive-In in Denver, Colorado. Ballast claimed to have come up with the idea while testing hamburger toppings. Although Louis registered the name, he never made any claims, and the restaurant is now a thing of the past. Some historians dispute that he actually was issued a trademark. SOURCES: The American and His Food, Revised
Edition, by Richard Osborn Cummings, published by University of Chicago
Press, 1970. Birthplace of the Burger, The Lassen family has 'em the same way for generations at Louis' Lunch, by Jim Shelton, Register Staff, http://www.louislunch.com/register.jpg, an internet web site. The Better Burger Battle, Atlas of Popular Culture in the Northeatern United States, by John E. Harmon, http://www.geography.ccsu.edu/harmonj/atlas/burgers.html, an internet web site. Beyond the Ice Cream Cone - The Whole Scoop on food at the 1904 World's Fair, by Pamela J. Vaccaro, Enid Press, St. Louis, 2004. Brief History of Athens, Texas, Texas Highways Magazine, July 1994. Boston Cooking School Cook Book, by Mrs. D.A. Lincoln, Dover Publications, Inc. Mineola, New York (1996 Reprint of the 1884 Classic). Bull Cook and authentic Historical Recipes and Practices, Volume II, by George Leonard Herter & Berthe E. Herter, 1967. Can you believe some dispute us? We won, now we celebrate - newspaper guide to hamburger cookoff, Athens (TX) Daily Review, Athens Daily Review, September 25, 1991. Cheap burger in paradise: History of the hamburger, by Milford Prewitt, North Carolina Discoveries. Food in American History, Part 6 - Beef (Part 1): Reconstruction and Growth Into the 20th Century (1865-1910), by Louis E. Grivetti, PhD, Jan L. Corlett, PhD, Bertram M. Gordon, PhD, and Cassius T. Lockett, PhD, Nutrition Today Magazine, Volume 39, January/February 2004, pp 16-25. From Boarding House to Bistro: the American Restaurant Then and Now, by Richard Pillsbury. Boston: Unwin Hyman, 1990. Hamburgers and Mustard: A Match Made in Wisconsin, by Eric Model, published by Hidden America - USA Today, July 23, 1999. History of the Menches Brothers. Louis' Lunch (A little bit a history). Menches Bros. is more than just burgers, by Michelle Detwiler, 7/18/2002, Leader Publications, Akron, Ohio. National Even Coming to Akron - Today is National Hamburger Day! City of Akron, 2004 News Release, May 28, 1994, http://ci.akron.oh.us/News_Releases/2004/0528.html, an internet web site. The Night 2000 Men Came To Dinner, by Douglas G. Meldrum, published by Charles Scribner's Sons, 1994. Old Menus Tell the History of Hamburgers in L.A., by Roger M. Grace, Thursday, January 15, 2004, Los Angeles, CA Metropolitan New-Enterprise, http://www.metnews.com/, an internet web site. Online Extra: A Hamburger's Tasty Legacy, March 14, 2005, BusinessWeek.com. Clarindan Is 'Dan' of Hamburgers, Omaha World-Herald, by Paige Carlin, date unknown. Paying Homage To The Hamburger Is A Patriotic Duty, by Doris Reynolds, Naples Daily News, May 26, 1999. State of Oklahoma, Executive Department, Proclamation, April 12, 1995. Steve Church, Ridgecrest, California. The Better Burger Battle, by John E. Harmon, Atlas of Popular Culture in the Northeastern United States, http://www.geography.ccsu.edu/harmonj/atlas/burgers.html, an internet web site. The Complete Hamburger - The History of America's Favorite Sandwich, by Ronald L. McDonald, published by Carol Publishing Group, 1997. The Food of the Western World - An Encyclopedia of Food from North America and Europe, by Theodora Fitzgibbon, Quadrangle/The New York Times Book Co., 1976. The Food Chronology - The Food Chronology - A Food Lover's Compendium of Events and Anecdotes, from Prehistory to the Present, by James Trager, New York, published by Henry Holt and Company, 1995. The Origin of Hamburgers and Ketchup, by Giovanni Ballarini, University of the Studies of Parma. The White Shoe Irregular: It was Fun while it lasted, Honoring Louis' Lunch on Its 15th Anniversary, Representative Rosa L. DeLauro, Congressional Record, 27 July 2000, page E1377. They Only Serve Burgers Their Way, Making It In Connecticut, Your Money, March 12, 1994, http://www.louislunch.com/money_small.jpg, an internet web site. Tolbert's Texas, The Henderson County Hamburger, by F. X. Tolbert, Doubleday & Co., Garden City, New York, 1983. Weber's Sperior Root Beer, by the Weber family. Welcome To Hamburger Heaven, by Michael Wallis, Oklahoma Today Magazine, May 1995. Who Invented Hamburger Sandwich? And What About the Cheeseburger?, by Roger M. Grace, Reminiscing, Thursday, January 8, 2004, Metropolitan News-Enterprise. |