photo courtesy of Family
Features
A grilled sandwich made with
corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on rye bread. There are a
couple of legends or stories involving the creation of the Reuben Sandwich. I can find no
actual evidence to support either claim. You be the judge!
1914 - It is said that late one evening an actress came into the restaurant and said, Reuben
took a loaf of rye bread created this Reuben sandwich. Arnold Reuben, Jr., the son of the
restaurants founder, believes that the sandwich was first made in 1927 or 1928 by
one of the chefs who though that he ate too many hamburgers, made him a really good
sandwich.
Patricia B. Taylor, daughter of
Arnold Reuben (1883-1970), the founder of Reubens Restaurant and Delicatessen,
remembers that her father made the first Reuben Sandwich in 1914. She described the
incident to Crag Claiborne of the New York Times in his book called Craig
Claibornes - The New York Times Food Encyclopedia:
The year was 1914. Late one evening a leading lady of
actor Charlie Chaplin came into the restaurant and said, 'Reuben, make me a sandwich,
make it a combination, I'm so hungry I could eat a brick.' He took a loaf of rye
bread, cut two slices on the bias and stacked one piece with sliced Virginia ham, roast
turkey, and imported Swiss cheese, topped off with coleslaw and lots of Reuben's special
Russian dressing and the second slice of bread. He served it to the lady who said, 'Gee,
Reuben, this is the best sandwich I ever ate, you ought to call it an Annette Seelos
Special.' To which he replied, 'Like hell I will, I'll call it a Reuben's
Special.'
In 1938, Arnold Reuben gave an interview for
the American Life Histories: Manuscripts from the Federal Writers’
Project, 1936-1940, Reuben and his Restaurant, December 18,1938.
Excerpts from the interview are as follows:
I’ll tell you about how I got the sandwich idea. I owned
a delicatessen on Broadway and one day a dame walks in, one of the
theatrical dames, and she’s down and out I suppose, and she asks me for
something to eat. Her name was Anna Selos. Well, I’m feeling sort of
good, so I figure I’ll clown around for the dame. That’s how it all came
about. I’m clowning for the dame. Well, what do I do? I take a holy
bread that I used to keep and grab up the knife and, you know, clowning
like, I cut it right through on the bias. Then I take some roast beef, I
don’t remember exactly what. But, anyway, I figure I’ll put anything on.
So I take some meat and cheese and I slap it on, and I put on some spice
and stuff and I make her up a sandwich; it was a foot high. Well the
dame just eats it, that’s all. She must have been plenty hungry. And
when she gets through she says, “Mr. Reuben, that’s the best sandwich I
ever tasted in my life.” Well, the idea comes to me in a flash. I’ll
call it the Anna Selos sandwich, after the dame. Then, one night, she
brings some friends up, you know, stage people and a newspaper man, and
this guy he goes right behind the counter and makes himself up a
sandwich, and then he tells me why I don’t call the sandwich after
celebrities? Like what happened with Anna Selos. Why don’t I call it the
Anna Selos sandwich? Well, boys, in a flash, I get the idea. Anna Selos!
I’ll call it a Reuben Special.
1925
- Another version is Reuben Kulakofsky (1873-1960), a wholesale
grocer in Omaha, Nebraska and co-owner of Central Market in Omaha from 1900 to 1943,
created the Reuben Sandwich. Kulakofsky belonged to a weekly poker group whose members
apparently enjoyed fixing their own sandwiches every bit as much as they enjoyed playing
poker. One of the players, Charles Schimmel, owner of the Blackstone Hotel in Omaha, put
the Reuben Sandwich on the hotel menu.
1950s - George Leonard Herter, is his book
Bull
Cook and Authentic Historical Recipes and Practices, Volume II, gives his account on who
invented the Reuben Sandwich. Herter's writings were known for their mixture
of legend and history. NOTE: I have never been able to verify the below
information in my research. You be the judge:
The Reuben Sandwich is unquestionably
one of New York's greatest contributions to the world of eating and is
found in restaurants in all of the major cities of North America. The
sandwich was invented by William Hamerly, a New York accountant and
bachelor cook. He named it for Arnold Reuben, founder of Reuben's New
York Restaurant. Arnold Reuben has done a great deal of work for New
York charities. He, in fact, received several awards for his charitable
work. Hamberly named the sandwich for Reuben, not because he founded the
famous Reuben Restaurant, but because he admired his charitable works.
Like any really outstanding cooking recipe, the Reuben Sandwich spread
over all of North America and even into Europe in a very short time.
1956
- Fern Snider, chef of
the Rose Bowl Restaurant in Omaha, was named grand prize winner in the 1956
national sandwich idea contest sponsored by the National Restaurant
Association. The Reuben Sandwich obtained almost immediate national fame.
According to the September 1956, American Restaurant Magazine, in an
article titled "National Sandwich Winners:"
THE RUEBEN, a
hearty man-sized sandwich of corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss
cheese on Russian rye bread, is the nation’s top hotel and
restaurant sandwich in the opinion of judges of the National
Sandwich Idea Contest in which more than 600 different sandwich
items are entered from all parts of the country and Hawaii. The
Rueben was submitted by Fern Snider, chef at the Rose Bowl
Restaurant in Omaha, Nebr.