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Photo from King Estate Winery.

I adapted this recipe from the Pinot Noir Cookbook by Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of King Estate Winery in Eugene, Oregon. These moist cheese puffs are the traditional harvest snack for the grape growers and winemakers of Burgundy. Stephanie created this version with blue cheese to complement Oregon's wonderful Pinot Noir wines.

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1 1/2 cups water
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups unbleached flour, sifted
5 large eggs
1 cup blue cheese, crumbled (or substitute another blue-veined cheese)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a large baking or cookie sheet.

In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine water, butter, and salt; bring just to a boil and remove from the heat immediately. Add all of the flour at once, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until blended. NOTE: The flour absorbs the liquid rapidly, and must be mixed thoroughly until there are no lumps left. When the flour is incorporated, return the pan to the heat for several minutes, stirring constantly until the mixture starts to dry out and pull away from the edge of the pan. Remove from the heat; add the eggs one at a time, mixing each one until well blended. The dough should be soft and shiny. Add the blue cheese. Season with black pepper and more salt if needed.

Using two teaspoons: With one spoon, scoop up about 2 to 3 teaspoons for a cocktail-size puff (walnut size). With other spoon, push batter off first spoon and drop in a mound onto prepared baking sheet.

Using plastic bag: Place dough into bag. Cut the end off one corner with scissors, to make an opening about 1/4 inch. Squeeze the mixture onto the pans.

Using pastry bag: Put a 1/4-inch star tip into your pastry bag. Fill the bag with the dough. Squeeze the dough out in a circle motion to create small silver dollar-sized circles.

Leave about 2 inches between the gougères on the baking sheet, as the mixture will spread during baking. Don't worry if they don't look neat, they tend to round out as they rise in the oven.

Using a pastry brush, paint tops with a glaze of the beaten egg. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown. NOTE: When you break one open, it should be hollow; the inside should be cooked but still slightly moist. Remove the pans from the oven and serve the gougères while hot.

The puffs are at their best when served warm from the oven, but are also delicious at room temperature. For best results, use puffs with 24 hours, or wrap airtight and freeze.

NOTE:  I prefer to prepare the dough 2 to 3 hours in advance. Make the dough balls, cover; when ready to bake, just pop them into a pre-heated oven. The dough may be made a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. You may also bake and freeze them. Thaw at room temperature and refresh in a 350° F. oven for about 10 minutes.

Gougers are easy to travel with to. You can bring them to a dinner party and re-heat them (5 minutes at 350 degree F.) on a baking sheet when you arrive.

Makes 24 (3-inch) gougères.