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Wine, Friendship and Barbecue
Americans seem born to celebrate. The author of the Declaration of
Independence was also our first celebrity host. During the nation’s infancy,
Thomas Jefferson entertained guests from Paris and Madrid to New York and
Boston at his Monticello dinner table beginning the tradition of the
American wine dinner. Between dinner events and tending to his impressive
wine cellar and vegetable garden, he took time to compose the now immortal
statement of human rights that launched the American Revolution and directly
led to the founding of the United States.
Wine, farm-fresh food,
and friendship - A mighty powerful combination
Wine
has evolved in this country as an extension of the farming and winemaking
traditions of Europe. Spain played a bigger part in the beginning of wine in
this country than popularly believed. Franciscan monks and conquistadors
brought in wines from Spain into America and stored them in their Florida
cellars in St. Augustine and Mission San Luis (in today’s Tallahassee). The
gifted writer Julie Bettinger is a descendant of Emile Du bois, a native of
France who over a century ago, owned and managed a successful vineyard and
winery on the grounds of Mission San Luis, garnering critical acclaim
nationally for his vintages until, according to Ms. Bettinger, disease
destroyed the vinifera grapes.
We
are, of course, adaptable people and a disease-resistant hybrid white grape
was developed by the University of Florida and Lakeridge Vineyards near
Orlando. Named Blanc du Bois, honoring Emile’s domestic wine pioneering,
wine from this grape is now produced in New York, Texas, Louisiana and many
other states. I’ve enjoyed Blanc du Bois from Louisiana’s Ponchartrain
Winery in French Quarter gourmet restaurants. Similar to a dry Alsatian,
this is a wine for grilled seafood, particularly lime-marinated shrimp
wrapped in smoked bacon, grilled to a gentle crust. Assuming a bottle of
Blanc Du Bois will not be readily available, a crisp, clean, fruit forward
West Coast-style Sauvignon Blanc serves as the perfect counter balance for
the tangy, smoky and slightly spicy flavors.
Chef
Yann Chupin (see photo on right), a native of France, heads the gourmet kitchen at Linger Longer
Steakhouse at The Ritz-Carlton Lodge in bucolic Reynolds Plantation, a
lovely resort on Georgia’s Lake Oconee. Recently, he served his lip-smacking
Blackberry BBQ Sauce to my dinner guests and provided the recipe. It is more
versatile than most commercial sauces that commonly tend to be overwhelmed
with way too many ordinary components. A cardinal rule for barbecue is that
the star is the entrée and the sauce is part of the supporting cast. What
makes this sauce memorable for me is that it triggers a desire for a glass
of wine-white, red or rose-and acts as a catalyst between the flavors from
the grill to the experience on the palate, a sensation that should manifest
when the magic is just right.
This month is the unofficial launch of America’s barbecue celebration
starting with the Fourth of July holiday weekend. Wine is now
quintessentially part of the American lifestyle and if you dare pair the
delights from your grill with a wine that serves as a hot weather
refreshment, chances are very good that everything will be even more
delicious.
Toasts are important. Before the summer feast, propose one as a salute to
Mr. Jefferson and his enlightened, brave colleagues who long ago signed our
sacred document. We begin our dinner as they created our country: daring and
visionary. Each glass and every bite is a symbolic affirmation that we are
truly here to enjoy life, liberty and happiness.
Blackberry Barbecue Sauce:
by Chef Yann Chupin
Recipe Type:
Condiments and Sauces,
Barbecue and Grilling,
Blackberries,
Chile Peppers
Yields: 3 cup Blackberry Sauce
Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 40 min
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4
garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 sweet
onion (Vidalia), chopped
1 chipotle
chile pepper in adobo sauce
2 teaspoons chili powder
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 pints fresh
blackberries
1 tablespoon molasses
1 tablespoon honey
1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 tablespoon
balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1/2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tablespoon light soy sauce
1/4 cup water
Salt and freshly ground
pepper to taste
Preparation:
In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and sweat the onions and garlic.
Sweat: Sweating is the process of releasing flavors with moisture and low
temperatures. Fat, in this case, is used just to hold the non-volatile
flavors as they're released from the onion. No browning takes place. The
pan is covered so the lid traps steam, which condenses and drips back on
to the onions.
When
onions and garlic are translucent, stir in the chipotle chile pepper and
chili powder. When the chili powder just begin to release their aroma, stir
Add
the blackberries, molasses, honey, cider vinegar, balsamic vinegar, red wine
vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and water. Let simmer for 30
minutes. Lightly season with salt and pepper.
NOTE: Blackberry Barbecue
Sauce can be stored in air tight container in refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Yields 3 cups sauce.
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Doc Lawrence is a veteran food and
wine journalist based in Atlanta and Fort Lauderdale. Doc Lawrence
writes and lectures regularly about subjects in which he is a recognized
and acknowledged expert - wine and food, theater, travel and cultural
tourism, visual art and music. His works have
earned praise from many editors and publishers. Check out his blog
DOC'S NEWS at
www.doclawrencnews.blogspot.com.
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